The Hobbit and Greek Mythology Crossroads
February 9, 2024The Ascent of Alexander the Great to the Throne (336 BC)
February 13, 2024Greece, a country with a wine-making history that spans millennia, is home to an impressive diversity of indigenous grape varieties, each contributing to the rich collection of Greek wines. Among these, four main varieties stand out, capturing the essence of the country’s viticultural heritage and the unique characteristics of its terroir. These varieties include Assyrtiko, known for its mineral and citrus notes, primarily cultivated on the volcanic soils of Santorini; Agiorgitiko, offering rich, velvety reds from the Peloponnese region; Xinomavro, delivering complex and age-worthy reds with a distinctive acidity and tannin structure from the northern regions of Greece; and Moschofilero, producing highly aromatic and crisp whites in the Peloponnese. Together, these four grape varieties not only define the cornerstone of Greek wine production but also offer a fascinating glimpse into the country’s ancient viticultural tradition, skillfully blending historical practices with modern innovation to create wines of exceptional quality and character.
Assyrtiko
Assyrtiko is a white grape variety indigenous to Greece, renowned for its ability to produce wines with a remarkable balance between full-bodied richness and refreshing acidity. This grape variety is most famously associated with the island of Santorini, where it thrives in the island’s unique volcanic soils and benefits from the cool night breezes coming from the Aegean Sea, which help maintain its characteristic acidity even in the warm Mediterranean climate.
Assyrtiko wines are known for their distinct minerality, crisp acidity, and citrus flavors, often with hints of smoke or flint due to the volcanic soil. They can exhibit a range of flavors from lemon and lime to more ripe tropical fruit notes, depending on the vineyard’s location and winemaking techniques. While Assyrtiko is most commonly vinified as a dry white wine, it is also used to produce sweet wines from sun-dried grapes, particularly in the Vinsanto style that is also traditional to Santorini.
The adaptability of Assyrtiko is notable, as it has been successfully cultivated in other Greek regions and even abroad, where it continues to produce wines with its hallmark acidity and minerality, though the exact flavor profile can vary based on terroir.
In addition to its prominence on Santorini, Assyrtiko is gaining recognition and popularity in other parts of Greece and internationally, showcasing the diversity and quality of Greek white wines.
Exploring the world of Assyrtiko, a few standout bottles have garnered attention for their distinctive qualities, embodying the essence of this unique grape variety from Greece. Here’s a highlight of some notable Assyrtiko wines that showcase the versatility and depth of this grape:
• Santo Sparkling Assyrtiko 2013: This sparkling wine, produced using the méthode traditionelle, highlights Assyrtiko’s high acidity and showcases refreshing, zesty apple notes, marking a delightful venture into bubbly by Santo wines.
• Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini 2016: Celebrated for its purity and classic mineral density, this wine from one of Greece’s most respected wineries offers bright citrus fruit notes and a lingering finish, reflecting the terroir of its Oia sub-region origins.
• Gai’a Assyrtiko ‘Wild Ferment’ 2015: Gai’a Estate, a legend on Santorini, brings forth this wine with rich, aromatic notes of honeyed stone fruit, a result of indigenous yeast fermentation and skin contact, adding a layer of complexity to the Assyrtiko profile.
• Boutari Santorini Assyrtiko 2016: A pioneering winery in modern vinification methods on Santorini, Boutari’s Assyrtiko is zesty and rich, with chalky saline and citrus notes, ideal for pairing with green salads and grilled chicken.
• Domaine Sigalas Nychteri Assyrtiko 2013: This high-end Assyrtiko wine, aged in old oak, is richer and creamier than its younger counterparts, yet still maintains a zesty acidity, showcasing the Nychteri style’s unique character.
While these selections provide a glimpse into the diversity of Assyrtiko wines, each bottle tells a story of its own, from the ancient, phylloxera-resistant soils of Santorini to the innovative winemaking techniques that highlight the grape’s inherent qualities. Assyrtiko’s ability to express the minerality of its terroir while maintaining high acidity makes it a fascinating subject for wine enthusiasts and a versatile partner for a wide range of dishes.
Moschofilero
Moschofilero is a highly aromatic white grape variety native to Greece, particularly known for its cultivation in the Peloponnese region, especially in Mantinia. This grape is celebrated for its vibrant acidity, pronounced aromatics, and versatility, contributing to a range of wine styles from still to sparkling and even sweet wines.
The wines produced from Moschofilero are characterized by their light body, crisp acidity, and distinct floral and fruity aromatics, often reminiscent of rose petals, violets, citrus, and fresh grapes. Due to its aromatic profile, Moschofilero is sometimes compared to Muscat and Gewürztraminer, offering a unique combination of floral and spicy notes.
Moschofilero’s thin skin and pinkish-gray color (it’s actually a gray-skinned variant of the grape) contribute to the wine’s light and refreshing nature, making it an excellent choice for aperitifs or pairing with light dishes, seafood, salads, and Asian cuisine. The grape’s ability to retain its acidity even in warmer climates makes it particularly suited to the production of lively, aromatic wines that reflect the terroir of the Peloponnese.
Despite its relatively small cultivation area, Moschofilero has garnered international attention for its quality and distinctiveness, representing an important part of Greece’s wine heritage and its modern wine industry’s dynamic range..
Here are three famous Moschofilero wines that have garnered attention for their quality and representation of this aromatic Greek grape variety:
• Skouras 2021 Moscofilero (Peloponnese): This wine is celebrated for its delicate floral notes, ripe pineapple, and subtle sage aromas, combined with a refreshing palate featuring ample acidity and a bit of salinity. It’s a light-bodied wine that reflects the characteristic profile of Moschofilero, fermented in stainless steel to preserve its vibrant flavors.
• Gaia Wines 2021 Monograph Moschofilero (Peloponnese): Known for its aromatic and fruity nose, this dry white wine showcases lemon and stone-fruit aromas and flavors, bright acidity, and minerally notes throughout its long finish. Grown in calcareous clay soils at high elevations in the Mantinia region, this wine pours a pale straw color and represents the indigenous Moschofilero grape beautifully.
• Nasiakos 2021 Moschofilero (Mantinia): Offering a transportive experience, this wine features citrus and tropical fruits on the nose with lemon-lime flavors and a hint of spicy pepper on the palate, enhancing its food-pairing versatility. This easy-drinking wine embodies the freshness and aromatic intensity Moschofilero is known for.
These wines exemplify the diverse expressions of Moschofilero, from its aromatic complexity to its refreshing acidity, making them excellent representatives of this unique Greek varietal.
Agiorgitiko
Agiorgitiko, is the most planted and admirably versatile Greek red grape variety, native to Nemea in the Peloponnese. It is unique in that wines from Nemea region may be made exclusively from this variety. As of 2021, there were 2,185 hectares (about 5,400 acres) of Agiorgitiko planted in Greece. The variety is known for blending well with other varieties and can also produce high-quality rosé wines. Wines produced from Agiorgitiko are typically fruity but can sometimes lack acidity. However, grapes grown on the higher vineyards of Nemea can yield fresher and more long-lived red wines. Agiorgitiko, celebrated for its versatility and aromatic richness, produces wines that range from rosé to full-bodied reds, particularly acclaimed in Nemea. The varietal is known for its flavors of raspberry, blackberry, plum sauce, black pepper, and nutmeg, creating wines that are bone-dry, with a medium-full body, medium-high tannins, and medium acidity. These wines can age well, often recommended to be decanted for an hour and can cellar for over ten years. Agiorgitiko pairs excellently with roasted meats, tomato sauces, and spiced cuisines, enhancing the dining experience with its subtle flavors of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Here are three renowned Agiorgitiko wines that showcase the grape’s quality and diversity:
• Zacharias 2019 Agiorgitiko (Nemea): This wine presents cranberry aromas with a hint of dried sage, balanced fruit, acidity, and alcohol, culminating in a long finish with grippy tannins. It’s described as having a garnet color and a bit thin body but offers a well-balanced and enjoyable tasting experience.
• Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Flowers Agiorgitiko (Nemea): Rated as a Best Buy, this wine impresses with aromas of tomato, olive, dried herbs, and cherry, leading to a palate filled with smoke, savory meats, and fresh cherry flavors. Its complexity and approachability make it an elegant choice
Xinomavro
Xinomavro is a red grape variety that is indigenous to Greece, particularly known for being cultivated in the northern part of the country. It is most famously associated with the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) regions of Naoussa, Amynteo, and Goumenissa, among others, where it is used to produce a range of wines including dry reds, rosés, and sparkling wines. Xinomavro, which translates to “acid black” in Greek, is renowned for its high acidity and strong tannins, offering a significant aging potential. Wines made from Xinomavro are noted for their complex aromas, including red fruits, olives, spices, and often a tomato-like character, evolving into earthier notes as they age. The grape’s ability to reflect its terroir makes Xinomavro wines highly varied and interesting, ranging from robust and tannic to more refined and elegant expressions.
Here are the key PDO regions associated with Xinomavro, highlighting the variety of styles produced from this versatile grape:
• PDO Naoussa: Known for producing dry, full-bodied red wines that can age beautifully, showcasing Xinomavro’s complex flavor profile.
• PDO Amynteo: This region produces a range of Xinomavro wines, including dry reds, rosés, and sparkling wines. The cooler climate of Amynteo allows for the production of wines with a slightly more delicate character.
• PDO Goumenissa: Here, Xinomavro is often blended with the Negoska grape, offering wines with a softer tannin structure and a rounder body. These wines typically undergo aging in oak barrels for at least 12 months.
Xinomavro’s distinctive profile and versatility make it one of the most important and cherished Greek grape varieties, contributing significantly to the country’s reputation for producing high-quality, age-worthy red wines.
Exploring the world of Xinomavro, several labels stand out for their excellence and representation of this unique and complex grape variety. Here are three notable Xinomavro wines that have garnered attention and praise:
• Domaine Karanika, Extra Cuvée De Reserve Brut Nature 2017: This sparkling wine has received a silver rating of 94 points, celebrated for its white plum, green olive, mint, lemon rind, and fresh tomato nose. It’s described as having a dry palate with a vivid mousse, tart acidity, and a herbal finish, making it a fabulous choice for those looking to explore the sparkling side of Xinomavro.
• Kir-Yianni, Ramnista, Naoussa, Macedonia 2018: With a silver rating of 91 points, this wine showcases cherry and sweet spice on the nose, leading to a dense palate with a graphite texture. It’s praised for its savory, meaty, and herbal notes, all contributing to a long finish, embodying the classic characteristics of Xinomavro from the Naoussa region.
• Alpha Estate, Single Block Bara Yannis Vieilles Vignes Reserve Ecosystem Xinomavro, Amyndeon, Macedonia 2019: Earning a silver rating of 92 points, this wine presents orange peel and cherry aromatics. Its palate is noted for a tannic grip enhanced by sappy fruits and juicy acidity, culminating in a long finish. It’s a testament to the meticulous vineyard management and winemaking techniques that bring out the best in Xinomavro.